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Bizkaia Dmoda The Bilbao store that immerses itself in the magic of Japanese culture

Sarai Vazquez

A trip through Japan in 14 square meters and, best of all, without leaving Bilbao. It's that easy and possible in the unique store run by Ander Echeandia de Prado in the heart of the town, 'Los Jardines de Kyoto', located on Calle General Concha number 1. In the window of the small shop, they can be seen at a glance typical items from the Japanese country: a pair of lucky cats, with their bells hanging from their necks to ward off evil spirits; a wide variety of 'vintage' pottery, bowls and teapots typical of the tea ceremony; and, at the top, making a kind of single file, you can see some modern and colorful models of the classic 'tabi', the socks that have the space for the big toe separated from the rest. «They have this characteristic shape because they often accompany the 'getas', the sandals with wooden soles. They are usually used by geishas”, explains this 38-year-old Bilbao passionate about Japanese culture. Bizkaia Dmoda La tienda de Bilbao que se sumerge en la magia de la cultura japonesa Bizkaia Dmoda La tienda de Bilbao que se sumerge en la magia de la cultura japonesa

The window of the store 'The Gardens of Kyoto'. / PEDRO URRESTI

These are different products that attract the attention of passers-by who pass in front of the shop window and serve as a sample of everything that the customer can find inside. Trading is like a box of surprises. The 'haoris', short kimonos, have their own corner in the shop. "This version is more wearable," he says. They are by far the largest items offered at this establishment. Everything else comes in a small package, like the friendly and smiling 'kokeshi', hand-carved wooden dolls that Ander has placed on one of the shelves near the counter. “It is a 'souvenir' that cabinetmakers in northern Japan began to make for tourists visiting spas. They are made with dedication on the ground floor of houses », he explains.

Kokeshi dolls. / PEDRO URRESTI

Beside him, we are surprised by the 'daruma' figure in different versions. The most typical is made of papier-mâché and painted by hand. «It is the amulet of purposes. When you want to reach one, you have to paint one eye and, the moment you get it, you have to draw the other », he explains. And we can't forget 'tanuki', a raccoon-dog that is characterized by a big belly and huge testicles. And so, we come to the smallest items: tiny figurines, no larger than the size of our fingertips. They have the shape of a cat or frog and you have to insert them with the coins in the purse to attract good luck in different aspects of life. Some are for love, others for wisdom and there is also one for good health. And so on up to nine!

«More than 700 references»

Bizkaia Dmoda La tienda de Bilbao que se sumerge en la magia de la cultura japonesa

It is possible to browse the store shelves, over and over again, and still find new curious items that we hadn't noticed before. "It's normal, because I can have more than 700 references in the store," says this entrepreneur. These are products made in Japan that Ander selects exhaustively. "An acquaintance who lives in Kyoto sends me different pieces when I need them," he admits. Of course, once a year this young man takes the plane, despite the panic that causes him to fly, to look for special products first-hand among the most remote streets of Tokyo, Kyoto, Nara, Kōbe or Osaka. "I find them where I least expect it, often in second-hand markets or antique stores," he says. And despite everything he offers in the trade right now, he acknowledges that coronavirus restrictions are causing him to run out of stock. "I'm running out of supplies. With the pandemic, he has not traveled to Japan for two years. When I go there is a before and after in my business».

Ander in his Japanese store in Bilbao. / PEDRO URRESTI

But in this small place, decorated according to Japanese aesthetics - with a 'noren' curtain, which is usually placed at the entrance of restaurants, and two child's kimonos hanging on the wall -, there are still more traditional items from the Japanese country . In his establishment, he has also made room for fashion: the aforementioned 'hoaris' are followed by small Japanese bags, characteristic for having one handle a little longer than the other. They are made by a dressmaker in Bilbao with the remnants that Ander brings from Japan. Some colorful pieces of cloth that he also sells by the metre. "Many ladies come to the store to choose a fabric with which they then make their own clothes," he says.

Japanese bags. / PEDRO URRESTI

In the establishment you can also find a 'stand' full of incense with scents of cherry blossom, green tea or coffee, among others. "They are made with aloe and sandalwood and with the different essences," explains Ander. In the same corner, he also offers cast iron and ceramic incense burners. “They are different from the Tibetans. The Japanese do not have the bamboo stick, so the incense is consumed whole. It doesn't smoke and the smell isn't that overpowering," he adds. Next to him, we can acquire everything necessary to make Japanese calligraphy: natural hair brushes and inks. In addition, he also has 'washi' paper, which allows you to restore documents and other items. "This morning, for example, a man came to the store because he wanted to use it to restore some collector's notes," he says.

A Japanese incense burner with incense from it./ PEDRO URRESTI

On another of the shelves, near the door, Ander has dedicatedly placed the novelties: a small beauty section, made up of solid perfumes, made with beeswax; cocoa and lip glosses. In that small corner, this Bilbao also exhibits a small 'gourmet' space, with a wide variety of products to use at the table and food. Thus, you can buy soy sauce boats, bamboo chopsticks, supports to support the chopsticks, or bowls to serve and eat the ramen. "Also, I have everything I need to make matcha tea or drink sake, a drink made from crushed rice and alcohol, which you can also get here," he adds.

Ander founded 'Kyoto Gardens' six years ago: "I had been working in different businesses in the village for a long time, until I decided to open my own," he says. He wanted to create a unique store in Bilbao and it immediately occurred to him that it should be related to the Japanese theme, a country that he had always been passionate about. "There were some specialized comic and manga shops, but none of them offered a variety of typical Japanese items," he explains. Over the years, his local has earned a place in the hearts of Bilbao. «Many come to make an original gift; others, however, enter the store for the first time, fall in love with a product and start collecting it », he says. Something that usually happens "very often" with 'kokeshi' dolls, the best-selling product.

Since last July 1, commerce has changed location and paradigm: «Before we were opposite. It was a larger store and we offered even more products, such as bonsai; and we organized workshops». Now, in a smaller space filled with tiny figurines, Ander has decided to focus on Japan's traditional products: fashion, lucky charms and ceramics. And thus, to be able to offer a trip through the country of the rising sun in 14 square meters and without leaving Bilbao. Do you start the journey?

Topics

Instagram, El Pais, Japan, Bilbao, Kyoto, Tokyo, Nara, Osaka
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