Sustainable fashion
Clara Esteve's personal project-Creative Director of TCN-has become the reference brand of an artisanal, local and sustainable tense beyond the swimsuit
Laia Beltran
A modernist column room, an army of models dressed in bikinis, swimsuits and various summer garments with faded and, soundtrack, a catchy song by Sidonie.In the last plane of this virtual parade appears a brunette woman dressed in a beautiful sweatshirt, a shy smile outlines.
She is Clara Esteve, the founder of All That She Loves, one of the brands that paraded during the first digital edition of 080 Barcelona, held in September last year.Although the change of format has transformed the Catalan catwalk, there are things that do not change: for example, the final photography of the designer surrounded by the models.
This choral photograph circulated through the lookbook of the commercial agents of All That She Loves and began to rain sweatshirt that just carried the designer that day that day."Although it was from the inspiration collection, it was a prototype and we had no intention of producing it, but we were forced to do so because it was very successful," recalls the accidental protagonist of the image.
With this simple anecdote, Clara Esteve verified something that already sensed: that his brand had a lot of travel beyond intimate clothing and bathing, a very seasonal sector.And more importantly: that his commitment to tincture in garment was a successful decision because, in the end and after, one must simp.
And what does Clara Esteve like?“Many things: music, yoga, sea and the landscape of the Costa Brava that inspire me a lot, the kitchen in general and the Japanese in particular...And my work, which is my passion, ”he says.The facts do not deny it: it has been linked to TCN for eighteen years (the last two as creative director) and also, from her own study, she develops collections for Alex Rivière and Emes, two signatures also specialized in bathroom clothing.In addition, it still takes time and energy for All That She Loves, a personal project that more than a brand is a manifesto of how to do things well in a sector as questioned as fashion.
“I am sad to know that there are adults and even children who work many hours making clothes.That's why I have never wanted to work in this type of companies.All that She Loves is a responsible brand, which works with local workshops, and is also sustainable, because we strive to use organic or recycled tissues, ”he says.
It is a responsible brand, which works with local workshops, and is also sustainable ”
Clara EsteveDiseñadoraTo all this we must add the sign of identity of the firm: the tincture in pledge.“When I finished my fashion studies in Idep Barcelona, I did the practices in TCN.This is where I first experienced the tincture in pledge and I fell in love.I am fascinated to see the whole process, it is something magical, very creative, very manual, so it is and will be the essence of my brand ”, sentence about an millenary technique of eastern origin that prevents two garments from being exactly the same.
Among the various suppliers of All That She Loves, perhaps the most important are the tinters.They are the ones that (are produced by hand the designs that Clara Esteve and Albert Vila-Textile Training Textile-do elbow with an elbow in their study-workshop.They recognize that in this process there is a lot of essay and error, much experiment.And it is that the tincture in garment is an art, pure alchemy, an explosion of one or more colors on garments that always make raw, as if they were a blank canvas that must be provided with life and color and color.
"Every fabric we use - be it a plush, cotton, nylon, a neoprene or silk - needs a different process.According to the result you want to get dying in plane or hype, ”says Esteve.
To achieve the famous faded effect of the TIE-DYE the most important thing is the binding of the garment.“According to how you do, you will get circular, square, rhombus -shaped drawings… these linked can be done in many ways: talentrainy, ”the designer ironizes.
“In addition, it is a very handmade process: you have to link, dye, separate, wash, dry - many times outdoors - and iron each garment.Think that a complete tint of a small production can take five to six weeks.Do not imagine what we spend on samples ... a fortune! ”, Says Esteve.But the effort is worth it: influential women in terms of style such as Úrsula Corberó, Nawja Nimri and Malena Costa have already been seduced by the authenticity of their designs.
The spacious study-workshop of All That She Loves is on the Costa Brava, exactly in Calonge, hometown of the designer he returned five years ago.In some percheros sculptories, the autumn-winter 2021/22 collection is exposed.And no, there is no trace of bath clothes.Now it is a casualwear time: Felpa sweatshirts, knit pants, silk dresses, cotton t -shirts, leggings, even Parkas, in addition to a small underwear capsule that is sewn in Zaragoza with Parisian lace.
"We are very proud.We can say that this is the most complete winter collection of All That She Loves and remains comfortable, versatile and stylish so much to be at home and to leave on the street.We have also enhanced the Activewear line and have taken many finishes: the laces, the zippers ... and as we like to investigate with new fabrics and linked, this time we have dared to the point, ”explains Esteve, while holding a beautiful sweaterof Tricot with a faded effect on several tones.In their hands, the possibilities of tincture in garment seem to have no limits."They are endless," he emphasizes a smile.
Anatomy of a 'tricot' jersey
All That She Loves's collections do not start with the sketches of the garments.On the contrary, the inspiration arises with the color letter and the linked ones that will be applied to the tissues that will then be transformed into said garments.With the proposal for this autumn/winter 2021/22, Clara Esteve and Albert Vila have gone a little further by daring with the point genre.
These are the steps that have followed to produce the tricot jersey of the photograph, a garment that Clara Esteve designed and shows the potential of the TIE-DEYE well executed.
Los pasos1En una empresa textil de Olot se tejieron los jerséis a partir de unas bobinas de hilo de algodón orgánico de color blanco que compraron en Italia.
2La producción se mandó a otra empresa textil de Igualada, que se encargó de los acabados (por ejemplo, cerrar las costuras de todos los jerséis)
3En un taller de Terrassa, se hicieron los ligados a los jerséis de tricot y se tintaron en plano en varios colores, un proceso completamente manual. Una vez secos, se pasaron por el bombo para suavizarlos
4Todos los jerséis se mandaron de vuelta a la misma empresa textil de Olot para que fueran planchados, vaporizados, etiquetados y embolsados
5A principios de verano, toda la producción de jerséis llegó al almacén de Calonge. A finales de agosto, Clara y Albert empezaron a servir los pedidos de la colección de otoño/invierno 2021/22 a sus clientes multimarca y reservaron una parte de la producción para venderla desde la web de All That She Loves
*¿El precio final de este jersey de tricot con un pronunciado escote en forma de V y acabados de canalé? 115 euros (y no, no existen dos que sean exactamente iguales).
The future plans of All That She Loves are with a long -speaking and quiet step.“We do not want to become a brand that is in any store, in fact we are enhancing our own webshop as a point of sale.
We are also present in more than 30 multi -brand stores in Spain, most in Catalonia, the Balearic Islands and the North, in addition to a point of sale in Greece and another in Holland.Our goal is to internationalize, so we have started working with a London showroom that will be released with Origin, our spring/summer 2022 collection, ”says Esteve, who also dreams of selling his creations in Paris."It's my favorite city," he confesses.
In fact, the new summer collection-with another twist in the execution of the TIE-DYE and many metal flashes-will be presented in October in two parts: the first at the Gran Canaria Swim Week by by fashion warm, a specialized catwalk inBathroom clothes, and the second in the new edition of 080 Barcelona, which will be held virtually from October 25 to 28 and where All That She Loves will show its summer casualwear: tops, shorts, dresses, tunics...
"The first will be a face -to -face parade and we love it.In the second case, the parade that we recorded a few weeks ago will be screened in a spectacular architectural enclosure, the Espai Xavier Corberó of Esplugues de Llobregat ”, reveals Esteve.Paradoxically, a space as labyrinthine, magical and surprising as Tie-Dye himself.
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