Each year, consumers buy billions of cheap clothes that they throw away soon after. Often referred to as fast fashion, this practice is terrible for the environment, and recent data shows it's not going anywhere anytime soon. But Lycra wants to change it
The fashion industry produces 10% of all carbon emissions; It represents the second largest consumer of water in the world and pollutes the oceans with microplastics. A ResearchGate report said that fast fashion uses more energy than the aviation and shipping sectors combined.
And over the next 30 years, the demand for raw materials for garments is expected to triple. This will put extreme pressure on limited resources, including water, energy and land, the World Resources Institute said.
As CEO and Chairman of The Lycra Company—one of the world's largest textile companies—Julien Born knows the environmental cost of fast fashion; and he wants to help global brands rethink their approach to sustainability.
In fact, Born told Insider that Lycra takes steps to transition the fashion industry to a circular economy; that is, a model of production and consumption that implies reusing and recycling existing materials for as long as possible. Therefore, he partnered with Primark, Levi's and H&M to make his clothes. They make them last longer so they don't end up in landfills as quickly.
As conscious consumers and environmentalists hold the fashion industry accountable for fast fashion's detrimental effects on the environment, Lycra takes the call for sustainability to heart, as it has for over a decade.
Since 2011, the company's manufacturing sites have implemented more than 250 energy reduction programs. As of 2019, two of its sites have reduced their energy intensity by more than 20%; and more than half of its sites improved by at least 10%, according to the company's sustainability report.
“We have a long legacy of being first to market with a focus on corporate responsibility, compliance and security,” Born said. “All of these things bode well for leading sustainability because we have built trust, having done the right thing for a long time.”
How to make fast fashion a sustainable industry, according to an industry executive
In an interview with Insider, Born discussed Lycra's top three strategies to fight for a more environmentally conscious fashion industry atmosphere.
1. Sustainable Fast Fashion Partnerships
As a leading producer of fiber for the global textile, apparel and personal care industries, Lycra is uniquely positioned to influence the broader fashion industry. Lycra's collaboration with fashion brand H&M is a recent example of sustainable partnerships.
In 2020, the textile company announced that its Coolmax technology — which is made from recycled materials — would be featured in the H&M menswear collection.
"Usually we didn't do business with companies like those because they move so fast and aren't necessarily driven by innovation," Born said. “But because they are trying to change their models and look for more sustainable fashion, they are collaborating with strategic suppliers like us.”
Today, most companies have environmental, social and governance objectives related to sustainability. To help meet these goals, global fashion brands like Lululemon and Levi's are turning to Lycra to reduce their carbon footprint. Under these standards they seek the incorporation of sustainable fibers in their fabrics.
“Getting new business with retailers like this is a great indication that our focus on sustainability is not only the right thing to do but ultimately profitable. These relationships make us more viable over time as a company,” Born said.
2. Innovative Products Using Recycled Materials
The equivalent of a garbage truck full of clothes is burned or dumped in a landfill every second, according to a United Nations Environment Program report.
In addition, 85% of all textiles go to waste each year. The recycling rate of all textiles was 14.7% in 2018; that is, 2.5 million tons recycled, according to an estimate by the EPA.
The fashion industry faces increasing scrutiny about how its products affect the environment. As such, Lycra's commitment to fiber innovation through recycled materials makes the company a desirable partner.
In September, the company introduced EcoMade fiber, a denim jean fabric made from a blend of virgin polymer and recycled materials; these were collected from the floor of the Lycra factories. The pioneer fabric is made with 20% recycled materials.
“Sustainability really starts for us at the manufacturing level and goes all the way to the end of the garment life cycle; implementing recycling at every step,” Born said.
3. Extending the life cycle of fast fashion
A 2020 survey by Statista found that in 2019, 7% of the wardrobe of the average American consumer consisted of resale clothing. This proportion is expected to increase to 17% by 2029.
The second-hand and resale market keeps clothing and its components in circulation longer. As such, Lycra invests in manufacturing quality garments for durability. Thus, it extends its life cycle and reduces the carbon footprint of the industry.
“If you think about how the industry is evolving with secondhand, rentals and secondhand, all of these new platforms really require longer wearability for the garments,” Born said. “At the end of the day, the best way to save resources is not to throw away your clothes because they are poorly made. We have the ability to certify fabrics, to certify garments, and we have the technology to improve durability.”
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