Encinar, a Spanish sewing garment firm that you want to combine even with tracksuit

The tracksuit is happening as the Pitillo pants: his is the chronicle of an announced death that never just arrived.Last year, the New York Times talked about a rebound effect that would make us want only more arranged clothes.It is, in fact, one of the omnipresent trends on the catwalk: to conceive a future that forgets this ominous year of Pijameros looks.Another way to address it, perhaps more sensible, is to think about coexistence.For Fabio Encinar (Madrid, 1991) they are two fully compatible worlds: “Every day I go out and see women carrying an incredible top and almost tracksuit pants, or a sweatshirt and a wool coat… it seems fun that theEvolution style [...] I am amazed with acne minimalism or Raf Simons lines, but I think the mixing and combination are the perfect key, ”he says for Vogue Spain.

That crossroads reaches a meeting point in its homonymous brand.The intention of Encinar, one of the fifteen who’s on Next 2021 finalists, is to live in that intermediate place between sewing and read to wear, with garments that evoke the crafts of a country with a unique tradition in the industry.A maximum that is repeated in his new collection, in which the Madrid designer handles very Spanish references: “In my collections they face from Carlos Saura's cinema (Cuervos Cría is always mandatory before sitting down to draw), with the batters ofRocío Jurado Tail ... Share Moodboard all those racial references in Spain that folklore needs to express themselves with the images of the beginnings of IbizFrom Martin Parr's aesthetics to the Polaroids of François Halard.

This allusions cocktail is the language that speaks not only its last proposal, but also the others.To oak, his collections have long ceased to be different and unconnected stories.He sees them as a natural evolution, the same story told over time: “In all there can be new forms or patterns, but I think that if we choose garments of our last collections and mix them with each other, they could coexist almost without realizing it inA new collection, ”he says.

The volume, for example, is one of the most recognizable features of this new collection, present in updates of historicist sleeves such as ham and other asymmetric. It is also articulated around flyers, ties and other silhouettes that invade dresses with the same roundness as in the 80s: “Volumes are key in our identity. I am excited to see an image of haute couture of Ungaro or Yves Saint Laurent, and inevitably those references are filtered through my designs. It is the desire of an era that I have not lived but that I like to imagine: for me the 70s and 80s is the mixture between the Piscine and Fontic: a world full of people who spend time to beauty, ”he says. Among the materials, the taffeta or the Shantung are two of the protagonists of the collection: each season they try to track old stocks of workshops that have closed and buy them whole, says Encinar. It is his way of giving life to a fabric that was very desired decades ago, but that has fallen into oblivion: “I am fun finding all kinds of old tissues, our volumes come from the constructions of garments of that time and are achieved with greater Ease using the fabrics that were used at the time, ”he says. For this proposal, they have mixed fabrics with more body with Point Rome and textiles that behave very differently. When we ask him if he has a star garment, he reviews a little black dress from several collections, from Moiré Negro with asymmetric steering wheel, which marked a point and apart for the firm. He somehow has been present every year, and in 2021, he wanted to thank him through a jacket suit in which the steering wheel makes the jacket cross and closure on the model; "One of the most achieved this year," says the designer.

In full pandemic, the question for the consequences of the COVID seems of rigor. As for oak, the crisis has affected them at various levels. On the one hand, he points out, it is surprising how a collection ended almost in record time compared to the previous , but I would not repeat stress, ”says Madrid with laughter. Faced with the possibility of making a face -to -face parade, they chose to be prudent, although "the desire to return to the catwalk has not left." The alternative for 2021 was to make an engraved parade, a more grateful format but that still does not be comparable: “There are no setbacks, there are no hurry, there are no visible problems and the video has much more quality. But if I am honest, I think that the adrenaline of the staging, the feeling of bringing the attendees for a few minutes to your world, with a location, music, and feeling every step of the models is an incredible experience that has of occur ”.

As for sales, Pandemia frustrated its intention to launch online sale in April 2020. They finally decided to venture a few months later, in December.But with a twist: they rebuilt the looks, betting on styles in which the pants went from combining with a sandal to do it with a flat shoe and the top of festive volume with fluid sport pants.The garments that worked best?The most bulky and less commercial, which were exhausted.“We realized that the market was there, that I had been waiting and that fear was ours, but not from the public.People need the excuse, but don't want. ”